In depth
The Jardines del Rey cays: a causeway, flamingos, Hemingway and a fragile ecosystem
Off the north-central coast of Cuba, a chain of low islands stretches into the shallow sea. Cayo Coco, Cayo Guillermo and their neighbours, known as Jardines del Rey, the Gardens of the King, combine long white beaches, shallow lagoons, mangroves and wildlife. They are also one of the island's major resort zones, linked to the mainland by a long causeway. This guide describes the geography and ecology of the cays, the human history of the area, the connection with Hemingway, the effects of building a resort zone and the rules that govern them. It is descriptive and does not sell property.
Geography of the archipelago
The Jardines del Rey are part of the larger Sabana-Camagüey archipelago, a string of more than two thousand cays along the north coast. Cayo Coco, the biggest of the group, is named for the white ibis, called coco in Cuba, which lives there. Cayo Guillermo lies to the west, joined by a short road, and Cayo Paredón Grande and Cayo Romano are other members. The land is flat, covered with scrub, mangrove and dunes, and fringed by beaches of fine white sand.
A road built on a rock-fill embankment, called a pedraplén, runs about twenty-seven kilometres from the mainland near Morón across the shallow bay to Cayo Coco. Built between the late 1980s and the early 1990s, it opened the cays to development and made the zone accessible by road as well as by the international airport on Cayo Coco.
Wildlife and ecosystems
The cays shelter a great variety of birds, including pink flamingos that feed in shallow lagoons, herons, ibis and many migratory species. Mangroves provide nurseries for fish and shelter from storms. Coral reefs lie offshore, and seagrass beds support turtles and manatees in places. The area is part of a wider network of protected sites, including a biosphere reserve recognised by UNESCO on the north-central coast. Its ecosystems are sensitive to changes in water flow, pollution and disturbance.
Hemingway in the cays
The American writer Ernest Hemingway lived in Cuba for about two decades and fished the waters of the northern cays on his boat, the Pilar. The cays appear in his writing, notably in the novel Islands in the Stream. One of the most popular beaches on Cayo Guillermo carries the name of his boat, Playa Pilar, and a bar in the area is named in his honour. His association has become part of the zone's identity and of its tourism marketing.
Building a resort zone
From the 1990s, the cays were developed with hotels run by foreign operators in partnership with the state. The causeway interrupted water exchange between the bay and the sea, and scientists have studied its effects on salinity and ecosystems. Culverts and bridges were added to improve flow. The hotels follow limits on height and spread, and environmental guidelines. The zone shows both the economic appeal of such places and the need for ecological care.
Living or investing here is constrained. The land is state property, and the buildings are owned by state groups and operated by hotel companies. Foreigners cannot buy homes except under rare approved arrangements.
Weather and hazards
The cays are low and exposed. Hurricanes can bring storm surge that covers much of the land. Evacuation of guests and staff is organised by civil defence when warnings are issued. Mosquitoes can be a nuisance in some seasons. Sun and heat are strong. Visitors should heed forecasts and advice from staff.
This page is a description and does not offer properties or tours.
The causeway debate
The embankment that links Cayo Coco to the mainland was a bold piece of engineering and a matter of scientific debate. Built from rock fill across a shallow bay, it cut water exchange between the inner lagoon and the sea, raising salinity in parts of the bay and altering habitats. Researchers measured changes and proposed solutions, and openings were added to the embankment to restore some flow. The case is cited in discussions of how to link islands to the mainland without harming ecosystems, and it informed the design of later causeways, such as the one to Cayo Santa María, which has many more bridges.
Birdwatching and wildlife
For nature lovers, the cays are rewarding. Flamingos wade in the lagoons, and spoonbills, herons, egrets, ibises and pelicans are common. Migratory birds pass through in autumn and spring. Iguanas, crabs and small mammals live in the scrub, and in the water there are dolphins, turtles and rays. Early morning is the best time for birdwatching, and licensed guides help to find species while respecting nesting areas. Binoculars and a field guide are useful companions.
Visitors should keep distance from wildlife, avoid feeding animals and stay on marked trails.
Hotels, ownership and what residents do
The hotels on the cays are owned by state groups and managed by international operators. Staff often live in settlements on the mainland and are transported daily, or in staff housing built for the purpose. The cays have few permanent residents. This arrangement shapes the nature of the place: it is a destination, not a town. Foreigners cannot buy homes there, and visitors stay as hotel guests.
This page is descriptive. It does not sell property or tours.
Practical tips for visiting the cays
Visitors to the cays are mostly hotel guests, and the zone is organised around that. Bring sun protection, insect repellent for the evenings and a refillable bottle. Respect the protected areas by staying on paths and not touching wildlife. Excursions, such as boat trips and flamingo watching, are arranged through hotels or tour desks. Be mindful of the hurricane season and follow staff instructions. The cays are quiet, so for nightlife or local culture, plan day trips to the mainland towns.
Climate change and the future of low cays
Low-lying cays are among the most exposed places to rising seas and stronger storms. Scientists studying the Sabana-Camagüey archipelago warn that sea-level rise could erode beaches, flood lowlands and salinise freshwater lenses over the coming decades. Protecting mangroves and reefs, which buffer waves, is a key adaptation strategy, as is careful planning of new construction away from the most vulnerable areas.
The resort zone has invested in infrastructure to cope with storms, including raised roads and evacuation plans. Hotels follow guidelines on the placement of buildings. Whether these measures suffice over decades is a subject of research and debate.
For a visitor, the lesson is to appreciate these places and to support practices that reduce harm, such as saving water and energy and respecting protected areas.
Responsible visiting: a code for the cays
Visitors to ecologically sensitive coasts can follow a simple code. Stay on paths and boardwalks. Do not touch, stand on or collect coral, shells or marine life. Keep a distance from nesting birds and from wildlife. Do not feed animals. Use reef-friendly sun protection where available. Take your rubbish with you. Save water and electricity. Choose excursions run by responsible operators that limit group sizes. Respect local staff and communities.
These habits help to keep the cays beautiful for those who follow, and they reflect the care that local conservation workers try to instil in visitors.
Fishing and boating around the cays
The waters around the cays are known for fishing, including bonefish and tarpon on the flats and larger species offshore. Licensed operators offer fishing trips, and catch-and-release is encouraged for some species. Sailing and snorkelling excursions visit nearby reefs. Rules protect certain species and areas, and visitors should follow guidance from operators and the authorities. Fishing is part of the area's identity, tied to Hemingway's legend and to the livelihoods of local fishers.
Common questions
- How long is the causeway to Cayo Coco?
- About twenty-seven kilometres, from near Morón.
- Why is it called Cayo Coco?
- After the white ibis, called coco, which lives there.
- What bird is typical of the lagoons?
- The pink flamingo, among many others.
- What is the Hemingway connection?
- He fished the area on his boat Pilar, and a beach carries its name.
- Do you sell property here?
- No. This page is descriptive only.
- Can I visit the cays without staying in a hotel?
- Access to the cays is controlled, and most visitors stay in hotels. Day trips may be possible with tour operators. Ask in advance.
- What is the best time for birdwatching?
- Early morning, and from October to April when migrants arrive. Guides help to find species.
- Are there mosquitoes?
- Yes, especially at dusk and after rain. Bring repellent and consider light long sleeves.
- Is the zone suitable for families with young children?
- Many families visit, since the beaches are shallow and calm, the resorts have children's facilities and the setting is safe. Plan for strong sun, mosquitoes at dusk and long transfers from the airport or the mainland, and bring supplies for children that may be hard to find locally.
Official sources and where to go next
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